Ermenegildo Zegna Group Reports Strong Revenue Growth in Third Quarter of 2022

  • 3Q 2022 Revenues of €357 million, up 27.5% year-over-year
  • Healthy year-over-year1 growth across all geographies for Zegna and Thom Browne segments, with particular strength in Europe, the U.S., and the Middle East
  • Sustained revenue growth from both DTC and wholesale channels

MILAN–(BUSINESS WIRE)– Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. (NYSE:ZGN) (“Zegna Group,” “the Group,” or “the Company”), owner of the Zegna and Thom Browne brands, today announced unaudited revenues of €357 million for the Third Quarter of 2022, an increase of 27.5% year-over-year. The Group’s revenues reached €1.09 billion for the first nine months of the year, up 22.9% from the first nine months of 2021.

Ermenegildo “Gildo” Zegna, Chairman and CEO of the Zegna Group, said: “This quarter was one of our strongest yet thanks to exceptional performance by both Zegna and Thom Browne in Europe, the Middle East, and the U.S., as well as a rebound in the Greater China Region. We achieved a number of milestones this quarter as we continue to execute on our strategy and commitments while remaining true to the values that have guided us for 112 years.”

He added: “As always, caring for the natural world around us continues to be a bedrock of everything we do. Last month, we launched Oasi Cashmere, a significant step on our road to traceability. I am also very proud that Oasi Zegna, which is promoted by Zegna Group, received this year’s Biodiversity Conservation Award at the CNMI (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana) Sustainable Fashion Awards.

Finally, I would like to congratulate Thom Browne on his appointment as the next Chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, a testament to his creativity, his incredible success, and his leadership in the fashion industry in the U.S. and around the world.”

Select Highlights

  • Continued global growth for Zegna and Thom Browne
    • Strong performance for the quarter and for the first nine months of 2022 despite ongoing macroeconomic challenges around the world. Growth in every geography in the third quarter, including a rebound in the Greater China Region.
  • Our Road to Iconicity: Real Madrid Partnership
    • Announced a partnership with Real Madrid in August through which Zegna will become the official luxury travelwear partner for the world’s most successful football club.
  • Alessandro Sartori named WWD’s Menswear Designer of the Year
    • Zegna artistic director Alessandro Sartori was awarded WWD’s 2022 Menswear Designer of the Year in recognition of his innovative vision that has taken the brand in new directions.
  • Thom Browne Returns to Paris Women’s Fashion Week
    • Return to Paris Fashion Week for Thom Browne with its well-attended Spring 2023 Fashion Show. Positive media coverage and reviews across traditional and social media, as well as from VIPs and celebrities.
  • Our Road of Responsible Growth: Sustainability Activities and Ambition
    • Launched Oasi Cashmere, with the goal of 100% of the cashmere used in this collection being fully traceable by 2024.
    • Received the Biodiversity Conservation Award at the 2022 CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards for Oasi Zegna, which is supported by Zegna Group.
  • Our Commitment to Our Communities
    • Starting in Europe, in response to the ongoing energy crisis, launched a Group-wide energy efficiency plan that is targeting a 10% reduction in energy consumption from 2021 levels by 2023 in non-industrial sites. Initially implemented at Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna, the Group’s factories in Italy and Switzerland, and stores and offices in Europe. Key initiatives include:
      • Modifying indoor standard temperatures at all industrial sites, offices, and stores in alignment with requirements recently issued by the Italian government or other jurisdiction-specific restrictions.
      • Increasing efficiency on lighting and machinery, optimizing operating hours, and greater reliance on automatic switches.
      • Adjusting the lighting in our shops to an as-needed basis and turning off window lighting between the hours of 10 pm and 8 am.
      • Launching an energy awareness campaign targeting the Group’s workforce that encourages the adoption of electricity-, gas-, and water-saving practices at work and at home and that rewards employee actions and behaviors that promote energy efficiency.

Review of Third Quarter 2022 Revenues

For the third quarter of 2022, Zegna Group posted revenues of €357 million, up 27.5% year-over-year, and bringing revenues for the first nine months of the year to €1.09 billion, up 22.9% year-over-year.

Revenues by Segment

Zegna: The Zegna segment, which includes Zegna branded products as well as the Textile and Third-Party Brands product lines, continues to show robust growth, with revenues for the quarter of €289 million, up 27.2% year-over-year, showing an acceleration in 3Q thanks to the strength of all product lines.

Thom Browne: The Thom Browne segment continues to be a significant growth driver for the Group, with revenues for the quarter of €69 million, up 29.5% year-over-year.

Revenues by Product Line

Zegna Branded Products: Zegna branded products revenues grew 18.6% year-over-year, reaching €224 million for the quarter. This is a result of the continued success of the Zegna One Brand strategy that was fully launched in our stores at the beginning of July. Our focus on luxury leisurewear continues to prove successful, with steady growth in that line, particularly in knitwear, while the growth in shoes remains robust. Our Tailoring and Made-to-Measure lines have also seen a strong rebound this quarter, particularly in the U.S.

Thom Browne: Thom Browne revenues grew 29.8% year-over-year, reaching €69 million. Womenswear continues to grow faster than menswear, now accounting for almost 30% of the brand’s revenues. Growth across the brand is supported by strong wholesale demand, e-commerce growth through T-Mall in the Greater China Region, and four new store openings during the quarter, bringing the total of directly operated stores to 57 as of September 30, 2022 – up from 53 as of June 30, 2022. The recent appointment of founder Thom Browne as the next Chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America is yet another sign of the brand’s growing success and momentum.

Textile: Textile revenues for the quarter reached €30 million, up 33.3% year-over-year, with growth across Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna, Bonotto, and Dondi. Tessitura Ubertino was consolidated as part of the Group as of June 2021. In the first nine months of 2022, Tessitura Ubertino contributed an additional €3.9 million in revenues compared with the first nine months of 2021.

Third-Party Brands: Third-Party Brands revenues grew 64.2% year-over-year, reaching €32 million for the quarter thanks to strong contributions from Tom Ford and Gucci, the latter having more than doubled in comparison to the third quarter of 2021.

Revenues by Geography

The Group continues to see significant growth across all geographies. The Greater China Region has returned to growth for the quarter, enjoying a solid rebound in July and August before new lockdowns started having a negative impact in September. We continue to see dynamic growth in the Middle East and ongoing strength in the U.S. and Europe.

Revenues in the Greater China Region amounted to €116 million for the quarter, up 3.0% year-over-year. This follows the rebound we saw at the end of the second quarter due to the relaxing of COVID-19-related restrictions across several cities in China. Growth for all of APAC was at 13.7% for the quarter, with revenues reaching €153 million. Growth for the quarter was due to the positive DTC performance for both the Zegna and Thom Browne segments before the renewed lockdowns in September that occurred in major Chinese cities, including Chengdu, Shenzhen, and Tianjin.

The EMEA region exhibited the strongest growth for the quarter, at 42.8% year-over-year to reach €119 million in revenues. Of that, €16 million came from the Middle East and Africa (MEA2) region, an 86.4% growth year-over-year for the quarter. The UK also continued to grow, with revenues for the quarter growing 61.6% year-over-year to €15 million.

Revenues for the Americas grew at 38.6% for North America and 33.2% for Latin America, with revenues for the quarter of €77 million and €7 million, respectively. The U.S., an area of focus and strategic growth for the Group, saw revenues increase 38.3% year-over-year to €69 million for the quarter.

Revenues by Channel

Revenues from the Group’s directly operated store network, including e-commerce, were €217 million for the quarter, a 20.7% increase year-over-year. Of that, €180 million was from Zegna branded products and €37 million from Thom Browne – a growth of about 21% for both segments over last year.

Growth in Zegna DTC revenues was driven by strong performance in EMEA, particularly in the Middle East, as well as in the Americas. The September decline in the Greater China Region due to renewed lockdowns was offset by a strong July and August, leading to an overall flat DTC performance for Zegna-branded products in the quarter.

Thom Browne DTC revenues grew 21.6% year-over-year for the quarter, thanks to positive performance across all geographies, including the Greater China Region, which benefited from the additional contribution from e-commerce through T-Mall and new store openings.

Wholesale revenues grew 32.2% year-over-year for the quarter to reach €139 million, with Thom Browne showing particularly robust growth of 41% year-over-year for the quarter to reach €33 million. Third-Party Brands and Textile also grew at nearly 50% year-over-year to reach €63 million.

Fiscal Year 2022 Outlook

In light of the Group’s robust performance during the first nine months of 2022, and despite the continued volatility in the Greater China Region, the Group is confirming its full-year revenue guidance of mid-teens growth. We continue to anticipate solid improvement in our Adjusted EBIT3 despite the step-up in marketing and central costs, and the unfavorable country mix that may affect our margin. We also continue to expect a Cash Surplus3 increase in the second half of the year. This outlook assumes no further escalation or geographic extension of the war in Ukraine, no further significant macroeconomic deterioration, and a continuing uncertainty linked to the COVID-19 pandemic in the Greater China Region, and no other unforeseen events.

Medium-term Outlook: Our Path of Responsible Growth

On May 17, 2022, at its first Capital Markets Day, the Group announced its medium-term financial goals, aiming for revenues to exceed €2 billion and for Adjusted EBIT to reach at least 15% of revenues.

To drive revenue growth, the Group will focus on an increase in store productivity and continuing positive developments related to price and product mix. These actions, together with favorable operational leverage, should reflect positively on profitability. These improvements should more than offset the planned increase in marketing costs, which, together with capital expenditures (expected at 5% of full-year 2022 revenues), will further support our growth.

The Group will continue to pursue its strategy with confidence and determination while monitoring the significant uncertainties, including global health developments, consumer spending in the Greater China Region, and global geopolitical and macroeconomic risks.

The ESG targets announced at the Capital Markets Day in May also reaffirm the Group’s commitment to a path of responsible growth, with financial goals rooted in the Group’s values.

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1 All growth rates referenced in this release are year-over-year measurements unless specified otherwise and are expressed at actual foreign exchange rates.
2 MEA includes Middle East and African countries, as well as Turkey.
3 Adjusted EBIT, Adjusted EBIT Margin and Net Financial Indebtedness / Cash Surplus are non-IFRS financial measure. See the Non-IFRS Financial Measures section starting on page 4 of this communication for the definition of such non-IFRS measures.

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Conference Call

As previously announced, today at 8:00 a.m. ET (2:00 p.m. CET), the Company will host a webcast and conference call to discuss these earnings. A live webcast of the conference call will also be available on the Company’s website at ir.zegnagroup.com. To participate in the call, please dial:

Italy (Local): 06 9450 1060
United Kingdom (Local): 020 3936 2999
United States (Local): 1 646 664 1960
All other locations: +44 20 3936 2999

Participant Access code: 820223

An online archive of the broadcast will be available on the website shortly after the live call and will be available for twelve months. An online archive of the broadcast will be available on the website shortly after the live call and will be available for twelve months.

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Next Scheduled Announcement

The next scheduled announcement will be the full year 2022 revenues on January 25, 2023. To receive email alerts of the timing of future financial news releases, as well as future announcements, please register at https://ir.zegnagroup.com.

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Non-IFRS Financial Measures

Zegna’s management monitors and evaluates operating and financial performance using several non-IFRS financial measures including: adjusted earnings before interest and taxes (“Adjusted EBIT”), Adjusted EBIT Margin, and Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus). Zegna’s management believes that these non-IFRS financial measures provide useful and relevant information regarding Zegna’s financial performance and financial condition, and improve the ability of management and investors to assess and compare the financial performance and financial position of Zegna with those of other companies. They also provide comparable measures that facilitate management’s ability to identify operational trends, as well as make decisions regarding future spending, resource allocations and other strategic and operational decisions. While similar measures are widely used in the industry in which Zegna operates, the financial measures that Zegna uses may not be comparable to other similarly named measures used by other companies nor are they intended to be substitutes for measures of financial performance or financial position as prepared in accordance with IFRS.

Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted EBIT Margin

Adjusted EBIT is defined as profit or loss before income taxes plus financial income, financial expenses, exchange losses and the result from investments accounted for using the equity method, adjusted for income and costs which are significant in nature and that management considers not reflective of underlying operating activities, including, for one or all of the periods, impairment of leased and owned stores, costs related to the Business Combination, a special donation to the UNHCR, severance indemnities and provision for severance expenses, proceeds to exit an existing lease agreement (key money) and certain costs related to the Agnona disposal. Adjusted EBIT Margin is defined as Adjusted EBIT divided by revenues of the applicable period.

Zegna’s management uses Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted EBIT Margin for internal reporting to assess performance and as part of the forecasting, budgeting and decision-making processes as they provide additional transparency regarding Zegna’s underlying operating performance. Zegna’s management believes these non-IFRS measures are useful because they exclude items that management believes are not indicative of Zegna’s underlying operating performance and allow management to view operating trends, perform analytical comparisons and benchmark performance between periods and among segments. Zegna’s management also believes that Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted EBIT Margin are useful for investors and analysts to better understand how management assesses Zegna’s underlying operating performance on a consistent basis and to compare Zegna’s performance with that of other companies. Accordingly, management believes that Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted EBIT Margin provide useful information to third party stakeholders in understanding and evaluating Zegna’s operating results.

Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus)

Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) is defined as the sum of financial borrowings (current and non-current), derivative financial instruments, loans and certain other financial liabilities (recorded within other non-current financial liabilities in the consolidated statement of financial position), net of cash and cash equivalents, derivative financial instruments and certain other current financial assets.

Zegna’s management believes that Net Financial Indebtedness/(Cash Surplus) is useful to monitor the level of net liquidity and financial resources available to Zegna. Zegna’s management believes this non-IFRS measure aids management, investors and analysts to analyze Zegna’s financial position and financial resources available, and to compare Zegna’s financial position and financial resources available with that of other companies.

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Capital Expenditure

Capital expenditure is defined as the sum of cash outflows that result in additions to property, plant and equipment and intangible assets.

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About Ermenegildo Zegna Group

Founded in 1910 in Trivero, Italy by Ermenegildo Zegna, the Zegna Group designs, creates and distributes luxury menswear and accessories under the Zegna brand, as well as womenswear, menswear and accessories under the Thom Browne brand. Through its Luxury Textile Laboratory Platform – which works to preserve artisanal mills producing the finest Italian fabrics – the Zegna Group manufactures and distributes the highest quality fabrics and textiles. Group products are sold through over 500 stores in 80 countries around the world, of which 295 are directly operated by the Group as of September 30, 2022 (242 Zegna stores and 57 Thom Browne stores). Over the decades, Zegna Group has charted Our Road: a unique path that winds itself through era-defining milestones that have seen the Group grow from a producer of superior wool fabric to a global luxury group. Our Road has led us to New York, where the Group has been listed on the New York Stock Exchange since December 20, 2021. And while we continue to progress on Our Road to tomorrow, we remain committed to upholding our founder’s legacy – one that is based upon the principle that a business’s activities should help the environment. Today, the Zegna Group is creating a lifestyle that marches to the rhythm of modern times while continuing to nurture bonds with the natural world and with our communities that create a better present and future.

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Forward Looking Statements

This communication, including the sections “Fiscal Year 2022 Outlook”, and “Medium-term Outlook: Our Path of Responsible Growth”, contains forward-looking statements that are based on beliefs and assumptions and on information currently available to the Company. In some cases, you can identify forward-looking statements by the following words: “may,” “will,” “could,” “would,” “should,” “expect,” “intend,” “plan,” “anticipate,” “believe,” “estimate,” “predict,” “project,” “potential,” “continue,” “ongoing,” “target,” “seek” or the negative or plural of these words, or other similar expressions that are predictions or indicate future events or prospects, although not all forward-looking statements contain these words. Any statements that refer to expectations, projections or other characterizations of future events or circumstances, including strategies or plans, are also forward-looking statements. These statements involve risks, uncertainties and other factors that may cause actual results, levels of activity, performance or achievements to be materially different from the information expressed or implied by these forward-looking statements. Although the Company believes that it has a reasonable basis for each forward-looking statement contained in this communication, the Company cautions you that these statements are based on a combination of facts and factors currently known and projections of the future, which are inherently uncertain. In addition, risks and uncertainties are described in the Company’s filings with the SEC. These filings may identify and address other important risks and uncertainties that could cause actual events and results to differ materially from those contained in the forward-looking statements. Most of these factors are outside the Company’s control and are difficult to predict. In light of the significant uncertainties in these forward-looking statements, you should not regard these statements as a representation or warranty by the Company and its directors, officers or employees or any other person that the Company will achieve its objectives and plans in any specified time frame, or at all. The forward-looking statements in this communication represent the views of Zegna as of the date of this communication. Subsequent events and developments may cause that view to change. However, while Zegna may elect to update these forward-looking statements at some point in the future, the Company disclaims any obligation to update or revise publicly forward-looking statements. You should, therefore, not rely on these forward-looking statements as representing the views of the Company as of any date subsequent to the date of this communication.

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Third Quarter 2022 and First Nine Months to September 30, 2022 – Group Unaudited Revenues

Group Revenues by Segment (Unaudited)

(€ thousands, except percentages)9M 2022 9M 2021 △% vs 9M 2021 1H 2022 1H 2021 △% vs 1H 2021 3Q 2022 3Q 2021 △% vs 3Q 2021
 UNAUDITED UNAUDITED   UNAUDITED UNAUDITED   UNAUDITED UNAUDITED  
                  
Revenues1,085,867 883,328 22.9% 728,993 603,340 20.8% 356,874 279,988 27.5%
Zegna segment842,229 693,235 21.5% 552,966 465,899 18.7% 289,263 227,336 27.2%
Thom Browne segment255,073 196,069 30.1% 185,769 142,553 30.3% 69,304 53,516 29.5%
Eliminations(11,435) (5,976) n.m. (9,742) (5,112) n.m. (1,693) (864) n.m.
________________________________________
Note: throughout this section “n.m.” means not meaningful
 

Group Revenues by Product Line (Unaudited)

(€ thousands, except percentages)9M 2022 9M 2021 △% vs 9M 2021 1H 2022 1H 2021 △% vs 1H 2021 3Q 2022 3Q 2021 △% vs 3Q 2021
 UNAUDITED UNAUDITED   UNAUDITED UNAUDITED   UNAUDITED UNAUDITED  
                  
Revenues1,085,867 883,328 22.9% 728,993 603,340 20.8% 356,874 279,988 27.5%
Zegna branded products649,568 565,359 14.9% 425,252 376,182 13.0% 224,316 189,177 18.6%
Thom Browne254,346 195,496 30.1% 185,166 142,219 30.2% 69,180 53,277 29.8%
Textile99,256 67,202 47.7% 68,968 44,478 55.1% 30,288 22,724 33.3%
Third Party Brands79,604 52,554 51.5% 47,341 32,901 43.9% 32,263 19,653 64.2%
Agnona45 434 (89.6%) 35 323 (89.2%) 10 111 (91.0%)
Other3,048 2,283 33.5% 2,231 7,237 (69.2%) 817 (4,954) n.m.
________________________________________
Zegna branded products include apparel, bags, shoes and small and large leather goods, as well as licensed goods and royalties.
 

Group Revenues by Geographical Area (Unaudited)

(€ thousands, except percentages)9M 2022 9M 2021 △% vs 9M 2021 1H 2022 1H 2021 △% vs 1H 2021 3Q 2022 3Q 2021 △% vs 3Q 2021
 UNAUDITED UNAUDITED   UNAUDITED UNAUDITED   UNAUDITED UNAUDITED  
                  
Revenues1,085,867 883,328 22.9% 728,993 603,340 20.8% 356,874 279,988 27.5%
EMEA (1)379,826 265,988 42.8% 260,627 182,531 42.8% 119,199 83,457 42.8%
of which Italy171,108 118,846 44.0% 125,996 84,682 48.8% 45,112 34,164 32.0%
of which UK38,608 23,618 63.5% 23,544 14,295 64.7% 15,064 9,323 61.6%
of which MEA (2)44,999 26,404 70.4% 28,948 17,791 62.7% 16,051 8,613 86.4%
North America (3)212,280 126,265 68.1% 135,275 70,701 91.3% 77,005 55,564 38.6%
of which United States193,594 115,201 68.0% 124,291 65,074 91.0% 69,303 50,127 38.3%
Latin America (4)19,558 12,398 57.8% 12,525 7,118 76.0% 7,033 5,280 33.2%
APAC (5)471,744 475,410 (0.8%) 318,825 340,875 (6.5%) 152,919 134,535 13.7%
of which Greater China Region363,453 401,417 (9.5%) 247,193 288,571 (14.3%) 116,260 112,846 3.0%
of which Japan44,718 36,842 21.4% 30,240 24,501 23.4% 14,478 12,341 17.3%
Other (6)2,459 3,267 (24.7%) 1,741 2,115 (17.7%) 718 1,152 (37.7%)
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(1)EMEA includes Europe, the Middle East and Africa.
(2)MEA includes Middle East countries, African countries and Turkey
(3)North America includes the United States of America and Canada.
(4)Latin America includes Mexico, Brazil and other Central and South American countries.
(5)APAC includes the Greater China Region, Japan, South Korea, Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Indonesia, Philippines, Australia, New Zealand, India and other Southeast Asian countries. Greater China Region includes the Chinese mainland, Hong Kong S.A.R., Macau S.A.R. and Taiwan.
(6)Other revenues mainly include royalties and certain sales of old season products.
 

Group Revenues by Channel (Unaudited)

(€ thousands, except percentages)9M 2022 % on Revenues 9M 2021 % on Revenues △% vs 9M 2021 1H 2022 1H 2021 △% vs 1H 2021 3Q 2022 3Q 2021 △% vs 3Q 2021
 UNAUDITED   UNAUDITED     UNAUDITED UNAUDITED   UNAUDITED UNAUDITED  
                      
Revenues1,085,867 100.0 % 883,328 100.0% 22.9% 728,993 603,340 20.8% 356,874 279,988 27.5%
Direct to Consumer (DTC) – Zegna branded products542,228   467,446   16.0% 361,850 317,814 13.9% 180,378 149,632 20.5%
Direct to Consumer (DTC) – Thom Browne branded products102,719   90,789   13.1% 66,174 60,734 9.0% 36,545 30,055 21.6%
Total Direct to Consumer (DTC)644,947 59.4 % 558,235 63.2% 15.5% 428,024 378,548 13.1% 216,923 179,687 20.7%
Wholesale Zegna branded products107,340   97,913   9.6% 63,402 58,368 8.6% 43,938 39,545 11.1%
Wholesale Thom Browne branded products151,627   104,707   44.8% 118,992 81,485 46.0% 32,635 23,222 40.5%
Wholesale Third Party Brands and Textile178,860   119,756   49.4% 116,309 77,379 50.3% 62,551 42,377 47.6%
Wholesale Agnona45   434   (89.6%) 35 323 (89.2%) 10 111 (91.0%)
Total Wholesale437,872 40.3 % 322,810 36.5% 35.6% 298,738 217,555 37.3% 139,134 105,255 32.2%
Other3,048 0.3 % 2,283 0.3% 33.5% 2,231 7,237 (69.2%) 817 (4,954) n.m.

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Group Monobrand (1) Store Network as of September 30, 2022

 As of September 30, 2022 As of December 31, 2021
# StoresZEGNA THOM BROWNE GROUP ZEGNA THOM BROWNE GROUP
EMEA66 10 76 69 9 78
Americas (2)52 6 58 50 5 55
APAC124 41 165 126 38 164
Total Direct to Customer (DTC)242 57 299 245 52 297
EMEA66 5 71 89 5 94
Americas (2)68 3 71 74 3 77
APAC32 30 62 32 30 62
Total Wholesale166 38 204 195 38 233
Total408 95 503 440 90 530
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(1)Monobrand store count includes our DOSs (which are divided into boutiques and outlets) and our Wholesale monobrand stores (including also monobrand franchisees).
(2)Americas include North America and Latin America.

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Investor Relations/Group Communications
Francesca Di Pasquantonio
francesca.dipasquantonio@zegna.com
+39 335 5837669

Media
Brunswick Group
Brendan Riley / Daria Danelli / Marie Jensen
briley@brunswickgroup.com / ddanelli@brunswickgroup.com / mjensen@brunswickgroup.com
+1 (917) 755-1454 / +39 348 635 1149 / +33 (0) 6 49 09 39 54

Source: Zegna Group

Attached Documents

Press release - 9M 2022 Preliminary Revenues
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